Friday, 2 May 2014

The Power of Zin

Of the worlds most noted grape varieties, Zinfandel must be the one that causes the most confusion and the most controversy. I bet that most of you reading this are immediately thinking of White Zinfandel, the sugar sweet rosé, made mostly in California. But did you know it also makes some superb, powerful, full red wines.
Zinfandel - Young and Old


Go into most pubs or mid-range restaurants in Britain and ask for a glass of rosé and you will most likely be served a glass of White Zin, usually from one of the big brand leaders such as Blossom Hill, Gallo, Echo Falls or Sutter Home. The supermarkets are even more obsessed with it and White Zin takes up most of their rosé shelf space.

I have to admit it even I have to succumb to the power of Zin. The wine list I supervise for my own establishment has two rosés by the glass, one of which is White Zinfandel. When ladies ask for it, and it is mostly ladies, I have to joke that 'they like the cherryade then'. Usually they laugh knowingly almost as if to say 'yes, I know this isn't a serious drink but I like it'. And that is fine by me. I always preach drink what you like, when you like and there is definitely a place for the Zin. It's a step up from Lambrini at least.

But I am fascinated to know when did White Zinfandel become such a big seller and almost a brand in itself. It seems that one minute, no one really drank rosé (at least in Britain) and the next every girl did.

The best use for White Zinfandel?

The White Zinfandel story is quite an interesting one. Zinfandel is actually the same as Primitivo, a variety traditionally grown in Puglia, the southern heel of Italy. It found its way to the United States in the 19th century. The name Zinfandel is uncertain in origin but was in common use by the 1870s. Zinfandel was made as a full red wine and continued to be made, even during Prohibition (1920-1933). After the Great Depression and Prohibition the wine industry was left in a poor state and Zinfandel fell quickly out of fashion.

Sutter Home of White Zinfandel
And so to 1975 when a fortunate accident in the winery of producer Sutter Home led to a batch of wine that did not ferment properly to dryness and White Zinfandel as we know it was born. By 1987 Sutter Home White Zinfandel was the best selling premium wine in the United States. It is responsible for bringing many new people to drinking wine. And this continues today. My experience is that many start with White Zinfandel and soon move on to drier styles.

I mentioned earlier that Zinfandel makes some big powerful red wines and so few people in the UK are aware of this. When Zinfandel fell out of fashion in the 1930s and 40s vineyards were abandoned but the vines not pulled up. Once Zin was once more acceptable interest turned to its traditional red style. Many of these wines are quite austere wines with big jammy flavours which can come as a shock if you've never tried them before. Often the alcohol levels are 14-14.5% so definitely a wine for food. In California they are held in high esteem.
One of the best value 'Old Vine Zins'
I've tried and widely  available in the UK

If you've never tried it and have been put off by the Zinfandel name please think again. They are not wines I would like to drink everyday but well worth trying at least once, preferably with a peppery steak or beef of some kind.

As for the White Zinfandel I think I will leave that to the girls although one of my staff, Chelsea, who really would style herself a bit of a 'Lambrini girl' did say to me only the other day that she was beginning to find the White Zinfandel a bit sweet. Ladies and gentleman my work here is done.

That is all for now. I will be back with another blog soon. If you would like to meet me in person and home is in the UK why not book an event with me. More information can be found at my website www.gloryofwine.com. Maybe you need an excuse for a party involving tasting some lovely wines. Or you could come to one of my events. Do get in touch.

You can also follow me on twitter @GloryofWine


Enjoy your wine. Cheers!
Simon

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