Content in Kent (The Garden of England) Day 3 (of 3)

Day three of my trip to the south east began with an early breakfast at my hotel in Rye. The evening before I had enjoyed a curry in town followed by a stop off at Olde Worlde Wines, a great bottle shop offering take out purchases and wine by the glass to drink in store. I got chatting to the locals and enjoyed a glass or three of the Barbera. This type of business is fairly new but growing throughout the UK as wine lovers seek out alternatives to the increasingly dominant supermarkets.

After breakfast and checkout I had an hour to spare so I decided on another walk around the the lovely town of Rye. If you've read the other blogs you can probably imagine what happened next. Rain, RAIN, RAIN. At least I now had a coat to protect me. To be honest this was no defence. For about the third time during my trip the weather was so bad that people were actually sheltering in doorways, including me. There is something quaint about seeing that but if you are caught in it it is horrible. Eventually I actually ran, yes ran down the high street back to my car.

Woodchurch Wines is a family business started in 2009 by Graham and Donna Barbour, with the intention of producing English sparkling wines using the noble Champagne grape varieties. After the disappointments of the afternoon before (see my previous blog) I was really hopeful of this meet up. For a start I was actually going to be meeting an actual owner of a vineyard.

My journey to the vineyard was a delight taking me back into Kent (from East Sussex) and through the beautiful towns of Appledore and Woodchurch itself which are both stunning. My sat-nav deposited me on the interestingly named 'Susans Hill' but I could not find the vineyard and drove at least a mile beyond it before I turned around and could see the vines in the distance. The entrance was simply a gate in a field, with no signage as Graham is keeping things quite low key at this stage.

As I mentioned in the first blog of my trip the phrase 'Content in Kent' came out of my meeting with Graham at his vineyard site. I mentioned the story in my first blog but it is worth repeating here. Having traveled the world on business, Graham had taken a keen interest in fine food and drink and decided wine-making would be for him. After careful consideration of many areas around the world he decided to focus on Kent for a vineyard site because he was indeed 'content in Kent' having spent most of his life there. I learnt all of this in an hour's chat with Graham at his vineyard site.

Initially we had a walk amongst the vines, hooray the rain stopped for 5 minutes, then sat and chatted as well as tasting the wines in a temporary small marquee that Graham has had erected on site. He is hopeful of a more permanent 'cellar door' at a later stage. Now the rain was hammering down again and having brought in some wine from his car Graham accidentally left his car boot open only to find it sodden when we went back out in the rain again about 30 minutes later. Sorry Graham, I did feel partially responsible!

Graham's passion for viticulture and for the quality of the wine produced shone through and I am so pleased I was able to meet him. Everything here is about the quality of the wine produced and this summer the first vintage, from 2012, is available to taste.

We started with the Classic Cuvée created with 91% Pinot Noir and 9% Pinot Meunier. A gorgeous golden colour and aromas of red berries with a touch of baked apple. The palate was creamy, with a touch of biscuityness from the secondary fermentation but utterly charming. So easy to drink.

Graham Barbour and his fantastic first vintage wines

We then moved on to the 'Blanc de Blancs' - and as the name suggests this is made entirely with white grapes so 100% Chardonnay. I am not usually a big fan of Blanc de Blancs Champagne as I often find it too heavy without the light touch of the Pinot Noir. But this was simply stunning. I can say this with absolute certainty that this was the finest sparkling Chardonnay, Champagne or otherwise that I have ever tasted. It really was. Again baked apple was present but the flavour veered more to the pastry rather than bready side. The opposite of what I expected. A magnificent wine worthy of much praise.

Left - Blanc de Blancs
Right - Classic Cuvée
Both - fabulous!

It won an IWSC bronze medal where as the Classic Cuvée won a silver but I much preferred the Blanc de Blancs. I took another glass, although I had a long drive home so had to be careful.
I thanked Graham for his time, and would like to do that again here. Your wines are superb, and this is just the first vintage.

If you would like to try them, and I highly recommend that you do, at the moment they are only available via the Woodchurch website, but Graham is working on supplying fine restaurants in the south east and who knows what else from there.

I will certainly be using them on tastings when I get the opportunity and I have a Champagne versus English Sparkling Wine evening at The Junction in Harborne, Birmingham on October 28th. More details here. Woodchurch  Blanc de Blancs will be one of the wines. I'd love you to join us.

Thanks for reading. Please do follow me on Twitter and Facebook to hear about my latest happenings and upcoming events. You might be interested in booking your own event. Details at www.gloryofwine.com

Until next time. Enjoy your wine.
Cheers
Simon

Content in Kent - The Garden of England Day 2 (of 3)

Day two of my trip to south east England saw me visit four vineyards and ended with an apple crumble. All will become clear.

I started the day with an appointment to meet Sheryl, Sales Executive of Hush Heath Estate at 10.30am. Of all the vineyards I contacted to visit Sheryl was the only one to phone me directly to confirm an appointment, for which I thank you. Looking at the website I was sure I was it would be an enjoyable morning and so it proved. For a start, it was the only time during my three days in the south where the rain stopped for long enough for me to enjoy a walk in the vines.

The journey from Rye took around 40 minutes and found me fairly deeply in the Kent countryside, a few miles from Staplehurst. I say this now, having looked at a map. As with most people these days I was relying entirely on my sat-nav and when this deposited me on a typical country lane with no sign of a winery. No matter the winery was just a few hundred yards further down the road.

I was bang on time for my appointment but took the opportunity to snap a few pictures in the car park. The reception area at Hush Heath is a joy. Beautifully appointed with all of their products, including still wines, sparkling wines, cider and juices neatly displayed along with a variety of branded goodies to promote the Hush Heath name.

Arriving at the fabulous Hush Heath Estate

Cheryl was waiting to meet me. She inquired of my available time and when I said I had an hour offered to take me out in her car to see the vines. I should explain that the vines are some distance from the winery. If you visit be aware that the walking tour of the vines can take around 90 minutes (At other vineyards it will be much shorter) and dogs and buggies are not permitted.

In my journey around the estate we passed by the gorgeous Hush Heath Manor. Built in 1503 it was in some disrepair when purchased by the Balfour-Lynn family in the 1980s. Today it is the gorgeous flagship of a stunning estate producing sensational wines, cider and apple juices. I understand it was Richard, head of the family, that wished to produce the best sparkling wine possible, especially rosé, and boy have they achieved that.

My tour complete I had a full tasting of the full range of Hush Heath produce. For me two products were outstanding; the Balfour Brut Rosé 2010, a hauntingly beautiful sparkler that really is one of the best English Sparkling rosé's around and has the awards to prove it. Sparkling red wines tend to be an Australian specialty but the Balfour 1503 Sparkling Pinot Noir surpasses the ones's that I have tried. For some sparkling red is an acquired taste but I love it. A bottle of each was purchased and a big thank you to Cheryl for taking time to show me around the estate.

I cannot leave Hush Heath without mentioning my meeting with Cathy and Stefan in the vineyards. This husband and wife team are the second generation to work on this land and their passion for the vines really showed. Cathy spoke with such knowledge and understanding of viticulture it is no wonder the wines are so sensational. The vines and orchards are in good and safe hands. I even persuaded them to pose together for a photo for me which Cheryl explained was a real rarity. I have already emailed it over but here it is again.

Cathy and Stefan from Hush Heath

 On leaving Hush Heath I just about had an enough time for a panini for lunch at Kino in Hawkhurst before hurrying to meet Ben at the Oxney Organic Estate. I think it would be fair to say that we are talking about potential for this vineyard. A large estate with recently planted vines (2012) that have only produced one vintage of still rosé wine (2014) so far.

The 850 acres of the estate comprises much farmland, woodlands as well as the vineyards. Organic methods are used throughout and the vineyard is the fourth largest organic vineyard in England. On my arrival the rain had started hammering down again so Ben and myself spent time chatting in the very neat and tidy winery. It has been build by converting an old oasthouse, which are all over Kent, and was built with small vessels to allow for experimenting with small batches of grapes. Too early to say much more at this stage but definitely a winery to watch for the future. A big thank you to Ben for coming in out the rain to show me around and to owner Kristin Syltevik for allowing me to visit.

Ben in the winery of Oxney Organic Estate

In the afternoon I made two further visits to vineyards, which to be honest were rather disappointing. Sedlescombe Organic Vineyard seems to be slightly rebellious as it has no association with the English Wine Producers, the body that most vineyards belong too. I hadn't organised an appointment but noticed it on my route. Owner Roy Cook styles himself the godfather of organic viticulture has been making wine here for over 30 years and I happy to acknowledge pioneers. But.....

The tasting room was rather ramshackle and dated. I was invited to conduct a tasting of their wines for £5. They are currently trumpeting an award for the Sedlescombe 2011 Regent, the first international recognition for an English red wine. They are also happy to declare it England's most expensive red wine at £49.50 a bottle. WHAT? I hear you cry. Yeah, I know I thought it too. And frankly it's not even that great. Sorry, I can only say what I think. No-one in their right mind would pay such a price for this wine. The international award was an obscure one, which garnered much publicity at the time, which is great but there are many better vineyards around. The other wines I tasted were okay but nothing special. I would have left disappointed but for the fact that I got a great photo of Sonia and Pauline who were also enjoying a tasting.

Sonia and Pauline - Cheers ladies!

If Sedlescombe was a disappointment then Carr Taylor Vineyards was even more so. The winemaking here dates from 1971. On my arrival the rain was now hosing down in biblical proportions. A walk around the vines was out of the question.

I ventured inside the tasting area which was tired and dated. The walls have some pictures of David Carr pouring sparkling wine near the Arc de Triomphe with Frenchman looking on in shock and awe. They date from the mid 1980s, possibly earlier. The style of the labels probably also date from that era. All of their wines are made from German cross varieties, popular in the early days of English wine making. No attempt to grow the three noble Champagne varieties has been started.

One of the white wines is called Cannonball. No, really it is. I felt so sad because this vineyard was once clearly cutting edge. I had a cursory tasting of the bland, boring wines and left immediately, having stayed less than 5 minutes. As I left a family of Chinese origin came in. I really wanted to shout "go somewhere else, this isn't English wine anymore"

I really hate having to be critical because I love English wine and want it to go from strength to strength but these two vineyards left me as sad as the inglorious English weather we were getting. I made a brief visit to Hastings which was horrible in the rain, but at least I finally got a new coat to protect me from that rain.

Fortunately I would be perked up the next morning when I met an owner of a vineyard. Meeting Graham Barbour of Woodchurch Wine was fantastic and I will tell you all about it my next blog (part 3).

I mentioned at the start, if you can remember that far back, about the ending with apple crumble. That ending was a few days later when the three glorious Bramley apples that I was given at Hush Heath were baked. And absolutely delicious it was too though I'd still much rather be drinking the fabulous rosé fizz from the estate.

See you next time. In the meantime enjoy your wine. Details of my wine tasting events business can be found at www.gloryofwine.com.
Cheers!

Simon

Content in Kent - The Garden of England Day 1 (of 3)

Well that's not true for a start as I spent a lot of my time in East Sussex and my evenings in the very pretty and ancient town of Rye, East Sussex.

This was my little excursion to the vineyards of south east England just last month (August 2015). The phrase 'content in Kent' was actually said to me by Graham Barbour of Woodchurch Estate, the last vineyard of the 6 I visited over 3 days. Having travelled the world on business, Graham had taken a keen interest in fine food and drink and decided winemaking would be for him. After careful consideration of many areas around the world he decided to focus on Kent for a vineyard site because he was indeed 'content in Kent' having spent most of his life there. More of Graham and the beautiful first vintage of Woodchurch wines in day 3, first we must return to the beginning of the story.

My wife Louise planned a trip away to Spain with her sister, and this gave me an excellent opportunity to visit an area of the country that I'd never been to before and to visit some of the fantastic English vineyards along the way.

Having selected Rye as a good base to stay I scanned my English Wine Producers map for vineyards I could visit. Having selected about 8 vineyards to approach I fired off an email introducing myself and hoping for the best. I should say that many of the vineyards are open to the public in any case but some only accepted private tours.

Top of my list to visit was Chapel Down, probably the leading English wine producer in terms of brand awareness. Although it would have been nice to have a private tour I was offered the chance to join one of the many tours they conduct daily at 1pm on the Monday. Leaving the West Midlands early I arrived for lunch in the pretty town of Tenterden just a few miles away from Chapel Down for lunch and the first of about 20 soakings from the terrible rainy weather that accompanied my week. At this point I also realised that I had forgotten my wet weather coat and had to rely on an umbrella until I had chance to purchase something new to protect me from the incessant weather.
No matter the tour of Chapel Down was a joy. Begun in 1977 with a planting of 6 acres by Stephen Skelton, after a few changes of ownership the plot has now expanded to 26 acres at the original site; 72 acres near Aylesford plus a further few hundred acres of vines grown under contract throughout the south east.

A fantastic welcome beckons at Chapel Down

The visitor centre is fitting for one of the UK's most high profile and largest producers. Beautifully appointed with a lovely walled herb garden, wine and fine food shop, tasting area, as well as the vineyards and winery. Our tour was conducted by Gavin, who clearly knew pretty much everything there was to know about the operation, and the wines when we came to taste them later. The tour lasted around 40 minutes and included the vines and all of the winery.

Our tour guide Gavin amongst the vines

I was delighted to see for the first time the full disgorging process where the plug of ice containing the lees is removed, the dosage added, followed by the corking and bottles then labelled. The whole process takes around 6 minutes and we all watched mesmerised as the bottles made their way across the winery, starting crown capped and unlabelled to finished product ready for sale. Fascinating, well for me anyway.

The fascinating disgorging process (slightly blurred)

Chapel Down have become so large now that they have outdoor temperature controlled fermenting tanks as they are not allowed to build any more sheds. The tour complete we returned to the shop and a tasting of 7 of Chapel Down's 17 wines available for purchase. I've tried my best to get into the still wines but it really is the sparkling wines that are of the most interest and the English Rose Sparkling at £20.99 got a 9/10 from me. All soft and delicious like a comfort blanket I could happily drink it all day.

The full list of available wines, beer and cider - And a few tasting notes from me

Chapel Down now also make beer, and most recently cider; their Curious Brew 4.7% ABV lager that is re-fermented using Champagne yeasts is a particular favourite with myself and a gold medal winner at the International Beer Challenge 2012. On departure I purchased a case and enjoyed tasting the 'Curious Apple' cider too.

Before leaving Chapel Down I just had to get a photo with my car and the Chapel Down entrance in shot. Ta dah:-

Glory of Wine outside Chapel Down!

Chapel Down are clearly only going to get bigger, their wines already have a significant presence on the aisles of Waitrose, and are a great British (or should I say English) success story. I left having thoroughly enjoyed the tour and tasting looking forward to more of the same.

A section of the wine list dedicated to just Sussex
and Kent sparkling wines. Wow!

I should say that throughout my three days the rain barely stopped and my afternoon and evening in Rye was spent mostly sheltering from the weather. Rye is a beautiful, quaint ancient town with quirky shops and passageways and some beautiful cobbled streets. My final word must go to English wine again though. In the window of the The George, a very fine hotel in Rye was the wine list containing a whole section on Kent and Sussex wines. To see that show's how established English Sparkling Wine is now. And that is great to see.

In Day 2 of my journey through English wine in Sussex and Kent I will be visiting Hush Heath Estate, one of the finest vineyards in southern England, discovering Oxney Organic Estate, a new kid on the block and telling about my four vineyard visits in one day.

Thanks for reading. Please come back soon. Please do follow me on Twitter and Facebook to here about my upcoming events or maybe book an event with me yourself. Details at my website www.gloryofwine.com

Until next time. Enjoy your wine.
Cheers
Simon

The Rise and Rise of English Wine

The rise and rise of English wine. It could be a poem couldn't it? I'd like to think by John Betjeman, although in his day if you had suggested he may like to drink English sparkling wine or Merret (more of which later) instead of Champagne I'm sure he would have laughed heartily, despite being the most patriotic of Englishman.

I should make clear here we are talking about English Wine rather than British Wine as has been vitriolically pointed out to me twice in the last week. I'm not sure that anyone is actually aware of British Wine or what it is. British Wine is a very inferior product made from grape juice imported into the UK where as English Wine is produced from fresh grapes grown in England, or Wales or apparently Scotland in the very near future. Just wanted to make that clear as was made clear to me at both events I have attended in the last week.

English Wine is definitely on the rise and whilst I don't think the French are quaking in their boots just yet there is plenty of interest in our viticulture. Grape growing and wine making first started commercially in Britain in the 1960s but it is only in the last 15 years or so that it has become widely regarded and today many high end restaurants are actively stocking and pushing English wines, and with good reason. Our Sparkling Wines in particular are seen as more than a match for Champagne and this is proven in the number of awards they have won.

You may not be aware but English Wine Week took place in the last week of May and lots of events took place around the country to celebrate.

One event I attended was "English Wine in an English Rose Garden" which took place in London  on Saturday 1st June and was hosted by Kelly of www.tastour.com, an award winning provider of weekly food and drink experiences. I must give credit to my wife's cousin Carly and her partner James at this point. It was they who organised the day out for us and what a day it was.

Kelly Bayliffe of Tastour

I cannot really say too much about the venue. But I was very impressed that Kelly had managed to set up two tables with all the nibbles, wine, glasses, etc with no help at all having been dropped off in a taxi in the middle of London with masses of people about.

The tasting was all about English Wine and we sampled 3 sparklers, 3 rosé and a sparkling red. Unfortunately Kelly did not give out tasting notes or a list of wines that we tried, which I thought was a bit disappointing, and it was difficult to make notes standing up, especially as I had forgotten to take a pen with me. 

But no matter, we started with a Nyetimber Classic Cuvee which as luck would have it I had tried only the week before at another tasting. I bet in a blind tasting you could not tell it apart from Champagne. It has classic Champagne characteristics with a real biscuity, yeasty flavour and a long lemony finish. We moved on to Camel Valley 'Cornwall' Brut which was a Gold Medal winner and tasted it. Delicious. Matthew Jukes of the Daily Mail rates Camel Valley as "the number one winery in the country" and no wonder. Later on we also tried Camel Valley Sparkling Red which was certainly one of the best sparkling reds I've tried. 

The final sparkling wine was actually my favourite of the day. Ridgeview Bloomsbury is a Chardonnay dominated classic blend with a touch of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir to add finesse and structure just like a classic Champagne. And to me it tasted as the best Champagne should with lovely overtones of melon and honey. We moved onto some rosé wines shortly after tasting the Ridgeview but I could have drank the fizz all afternoon. Wow. 

Selection of the Wines tasted at the English Wine - English Rose Garden Event

I mentioned Merret at the start of the blog and it has been, controversially, suggested that it was Britain Christopher Merret rather than Dom Perignon who invented sparkling wine in the mid 17th Century. I have to give credit for this information to Kelly as it was a new factoid for me. The thought is that whilst the French have Champagne, Spanish, Cava and the Italians Prosecco the English have Merret. Not sure it will catch on but Ridgeview have started putting the Merret name on the neck of their bottles.

Our day with Tastour was completed with a tasting of three rosé wines that were all good but it felt a bit after the Lord Mayor's Show after the Merret. See I told you it would catch on. I should conclude by saying it was a great event, Kelly clearly knows her stuff and a big thank you to Carly and James for buying the tickets for us to attend.

One issue I know someone has with Kelly is Tina Abbiss of Halfpenny Green Vineyards which is only about 3 miles from my front door. Whilst in London Kelly suggested that 50 degrees was the northern limit for successful grape growth and Three Choirs Vineyard in Gloucestershire was the most northerly commercially successful operation. Well actually, no.

Tina, from Halfpenny Green
 with budding vines for 2013

Halfpenny Green Vineyards, which is 52 degrees north is celebrating 30 years of wine making this year and is still owned by Martin Vickers, a lifelong farmer, who started with a half acre experiment back in 1983. In fact the operation is a proper family operation with son Clive as winemaker, daughter-in-law Lisa managing the very successful tea rooms and wife Tina running the sales and marketing of the business. And it was Tina I went to see to talk about their wines. The operation has now expanded to over 30 acres of vines with more planned and currently a new extended winery and visitor centre is being built on site. I toured the current winery with Tina. They actually now produce wines for 30 operators as well as their own hugely successful wines. Overall they bottle 90,000 bottles a year from the winery.

Help me Rondo, Help, help me Rondo.
Award winning Rondo wine from 2011

Halfpenny Green produce a whole range of wines from dessert wine to sparkling to a full bodied red. Full bodied red I here you cry? In 2011 growing conditions were perfect to produce a full red wine from the Rondo grape which came in at a whopping 15% but on my tasting was quite delicious. Full and ripe with juicy tannins and velvety, long finish quite unlike many other wines from these shores. Good enough in fact to bad a Silver award at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2013. Unfortunately the weather in 2012 put paid to a repeat performance but they are hopeful for 2013. I should say I tried many of the white wines they offer and all were very pleasant and I hope to try the dessert wine and sparkling wines some time soon.

I should conclude by saying that we have to remember how hard it is to produce quality wines in England. It is estimated that in any decade two years will be great, four years acceptable, and the other four years useless due to our unpredictable weather patterns.

So hats off to all English wine producers, especially Martin, Clive, Tina and the rest of the 40 employees at Halfpenny Green, for giving us a little something to shout about when it comes to wine.

Cheers. Enjoy your wine.

Next time: My visit to Porto in Portugal

Simon

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